Getting to Toraja is a challenge by itself. Wherever you come from, be it via Jakarta or Bali, you need to arrive or land in Ujung Pandang or Makassar as it’s now called, the capital of the South Sulawesi province.

Makassar is situated on the coast of Sulawesi strait, which faces the big Borneo island. The port is dotted with elegant, wooden, Buginese schooners which have traversed the big seas as far as Africa for hundred of years. It’s a hot city with beautiful sunsets. Most of the time, I don’t stop by Makassar, unless I feel like having a great lunch of seafood: fresh grilled groupers, lobster, prawn, squid, lathered in soya sauce and eaten with chilly sauce. Bliss!

I have tried several combinations of transportation to get to Toraja from Makassar. Now and then, when the local government has the money or feel like spending the money, they will subsidise chartering a plane for Makassar/Toraja/Makassar route. A couple of years ago, the government decided to stop the flight, because they don’t feel like subsidising the tourists who take the planes. I guess, the government officials don’t think that the tourists are bringing income for the locals?! The small plane for 20 passengers, flies twice a week on Tuesdays and Fridays. The flight only takes 55 minutes. And it’s a beautiful journey. You can watch the valleys and rocky mountains from above. However, once my Bear took the flight, and they landed on the grass somewhere. He then asked:”How old is the plane?” Answer:”28 years”. Another question:”How old is the pilot?” Answer:”28 years old”.

I have also taken a night bus, which will pick you up from outside the airport at around 10pm. Or take the day bus, which will pick you up at around 2pm from a bakery in Maros, about 10 minutes drive from the airport. The bus trip will last for about eight hours. There will be at least two stops. The first is at the gas station in Sidrap (cross road between Sidenreng and Rappang) and the second one is at Bamba Puang, a mountain shaped like a gigantic vagina…or so the locals keep telling me (see picture, please use your imagination!)…two hours away from Rantepao, which is the base town for Toraja.

To go back to Makassar or Makassar airport, again you can take a night bus, which leaves at 9pm from Rantepao and arrive at the airport around 4am and in Makassar at 5 am. Yes, the downward trip from the mountainous Toraja to the coast is shorter, about 7 hours. There is also a morning bus at 10am and an afternoon one at 1pm. The bus ticket costs Rupiah 70,000 one way. The Executive bus is fully airconditioned (warning: it can get so cold, that I always bring my long Toraja sarong for blanket!) and has reclined seats. It’s also (Thank God!) non smoking. At every stop, you can see the driver and most male passengers suck their cigarettes as soon as they get off.

Of course the easiest is to rent a car. A mini bus or Toyota Kijang van, which can seat four to six passengers will cost around Rupiah 900,000 to drop you in Rantepao. If you rent a car for a week, the cost will be around Rupiah 400,000 per day, which includes a driver and gasoline. This way, after about three hours drive along the coast, you can stop for a seafood lunch in Pare Pare or the near by Kupa Beach. Then drive for two more hours and stop for coffee or tea at Bamba Puang to use your imagination in front of the gigantic vagina. The final two hours drive will take you through the roads that twisted like a long snake between valleys and mountains with purple soil. Very often, I am welcome by a perfect seven coloured rainbow as we enter Salubarani, the border of Toraja land.

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